How to install bases for storage tanks

Nowadays, shipping containers from all home to the computer server storage unit are completely transformed as containers become heavier and heavier. The weight of a dry 40-foot container is approximately 6,800 pounds or approx. 21 pounds. After conversion to a small commercial store, cabin or simple storage tank or tool tank, the weight of the frame materials, plasterboard, insulation, lighting, HVAC, plumbing, furniture and fixtures, and square kilos is easily eight to tenfold growing!

Although this is still not an astronomical figure for building loads, it is significant enough to worry about the proper design and pad or foundation to adjust the building. If the foundation or bench in which you want to set up the building is not suitable, then even an empty or lightly loaded container will stop, which will make the floor uneven and worse, doors that are very difficult to open, close and close. As soon as a container (or any material) is not available, the condition will deteriorate further as further dead loads (construction weight) will be directed to the low point of the structure. If you are planning to build a shipping container house in an area where building permits are required, like a fully designed floor plan, you are part of the package you submit. However, if you are setting up a storage tank or cabin or a rural area where no authorization is required, make sure you do some preparatory work before shipping the container.

The simplest base or level of the container would be a level patch, ideally approx. 4-inch flat, exposed to horizontal surfaces, crushed concrete and approx. Compressed to 2 inches. on top and compress it to about two inches. Both products have a binder that helps keep the pillow together and still allows moisture to flow through. This method allows the tank to move freeze, but it will work well in storage tanks and other applications where there will be no utility connection or if the tank is connected to other structures.

If you live in a container, you need to connect utilities or connect to another building, consider installing a pier base. This is still a fairly straightforward project, and if all the right tools are available, it should take a few hours. Don't pinch the pennies if you don't have a puncher, rent one. A 12-inch bit works, but I recommend a 16-inch or 18-inch bit if available. The less stable your soil is, the larger the diameter of your pier, if you have a sandy soil, have a wet soil or have spent the past, you have to go to an 18 "pier.

Start: mark the four corners of the container, remember the 3, 4, 5 rule to make sure that its layout is square. Six piers for a 20-foot container. Mark the location of each pier. lift it out in your area, nice smooth roller, reliably flat bottom, and try to get the concrete soon after the drilling hole. i, and there is rain, your hands will be fine.

Fill the holes specifically, making sure not to leave any cavities. It is a good idea to have a round concrete form like Sonotube of the same diameter as the hole at 4-6 inches of concrete and set the Sonotube form.

It is extremely important to use a short two to four to turn the level of the concrete, the top of the piers should be at a level that will not otherwise receive the necessary support.

Wait at least 24 hours (preferably more) and carefully adjust the tank to the pier. You'll probably need more sprays, make sure you use hardwood or steel sheets, the soft pieces of wood don't make good.

The steps presented here may seem excessive, but much less work than emptying, moving the container, and then implementing the steps outlined below. A good foundation provides a solid foundation for the tank to serve for years.



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