Many older dwellers have a foundation stone that, over time, is paralyzed or bent over the elements passing through the stones. As mortar is no longer known, stones can easily be shifted. If there is a serious collapse of the stone wall, complete replacement is required. If the problem is less severe then a new concrete wall will need to be reinforced. If you have a ground floor basement floor, work is even easier. From the inside of the basement, you first have to invent an existing ditch next to the existing wall to build a new support leg. I have to be at least two feet, but three feet wide. Put your feet one foot deep. The top of the new base must be at the bottom of the stone wall and the new floor will be at the top of the foot. Be careful not to interfere with the soil under the stones. There will be no place under the stone wall. After completing the excavations, form the base and install the reinforcement rods. Use rods of at least 5/8 "diameter. Make the entire length of the leg and have three continuous bars on three feet wide. Now, cut pieces four feet long and bend one of the legs at one end to turn it off. These bands must be tied to the inner and outer extremities so that two rows of mandrels that run the entire length of the leg are no more than thirty inches apart. When the plinth is poured, only the vertical part of the rods is visible. After the pavement concrete was dry, pour out all the forms that do not leave the tree because the termites will dine.
Now install the horizontal rods of the same size, which are three inches away from the base and placed every 12 inches by running the entire length of the new wall. This must be done on both rows. When they are finished wall carpets. Using a few twisted screws, tighten them between the two carpets, pouring heavy concrete. The new wall thickness depends on the thickness of the stone wall and how bent the stone wall. My last wall was basically twenty-four inches thick, but twelve inches thick was the minimum that should be built. Wall carpets need to reach at least three inches of both sides of the wall. The interior carpet may be a bit more depending on the amount of bow in the stone wall. I used the Symonns concrete board panels from the rental shop to facilitate the design of the new wall, but the shapes can also be made of wood. The advantage of concrete boards is that they come in all sizes and widths, clips for easy attachment, pre-made anchors and so on. Keep in mind that this is a one-sided form. The most difficult type to build. You need to pull up to death and then put on another pants to avoid moving under the weight of wet concrete. The so-called whale dressing keeps the forms out of reach, but the kickers' generosity. You need extra help on the concrete casting day. Casting through the basement windows is not a joke because the boys can not see the guy in the finished tank.
One man has to stay out and shout on the windows. Faster, slower, more, too moist, and so on. One man has nothing to do except to look at the forms. If something moves, it must stop immediately. Buried between wet concrete and shattered panels is not a joke. Another person should flicker the shapes with a mechanical vibrator to ensure there are no cavities in the concrete. One more person can clap the shapes with a hammer to secure all the place of the concrete and look over the top of the form to make sure it fills the level. This eliminates too much pressure at one point at a time. Excessive pressure may cause the forms to malfunction. The wet concrete supplies the hydraulic pressure laterally to the shape of the mold, and this pressure can be tons. I've seen forms that were blown out of the workplace a hundred meters away. Depending on the thickness of the new wall a two-day wait for the form to be removed more than enough. Twenty-four hours is even better. Any spilled concrete will be extremely hard and will remove form in a much heavier form if you let the concrete be too long. Again, dismantle all the remains of the tree from work. Back up the soil and adjust the floor area to prepare for the new basement floor.
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